It is now Sunday night in balmy Guangzhou, and once again, we are running a few days behind in blogging. Lisa is typing tonight, as Charlie and Kyle shop for suitcases. Our suitcase handle broke, in perfect time, as we were leaving Changsha. The handle started ripping off little by little, more and more! The telescoping handle is now the only way to push/pull/carry it and THAT is presently being held together with a generous supply of clear packing tape. Anyway, after too many things jammed into too little time each day with early starts and long days, we will catch you up on a few things.
Last Friday, we left Changsha at the crack of dawn hour of 7:15 a.m. We caught the 9 a.m. Maglev Bullet train to Chenzhou. The train was an interesting experience as we jammed our way into line behind our guide, who cut in ahead of no less than 50 people. We had our jaws dropped open, since cutting in line is totally taboo in the U.S., but he thought nothing of it. We were definitely a sight to see with 6 kids, 7 suitcases, and a stroller dragging behind us.
What he didn’t tell us was that we needed to race down a hallway, up escalators and down the platform to the train. They only allow ticketed passengers onto the platforms, and then usually only a few moments before the departure times. Luckily, we made it. We stepped on board, stowed all of the luggage and stroller. We made or way to our “compartment” / Car thinking that you could just sit “anywhere.” But no, that’s not the case. It’s assigned seating, so we jammed and juggled our way up and down the aisles to our “assigned” seats.
Then the train took off, slowly at first, but soon topping out at speeds of 307 km/hr (191 mph). The ride was extremely smooth. It was pretty wild. The train was very modern, with a ton of leg room, and generous overhead storage much like a plane. SEPTA and Amtrak could learn so many lessons from the way the Chinese handle their train systems. The trains are clean, fast, and run ON TIME. They are light years ahead of the US.
Then there was a woman who walked the aisles, garbed in a clear face mask, selling drinks and snacks. Each time, as she passed, Tyler would look at me and say “Coke?” And I would say “No!” We passed by many farms, fields, rivers, rice paddies and mountains as we sped along. Some of it looked very similar to what we saw in Yangshao. After about 72 minutes, we arrived in Chenzhou (the city where Zachary’s orphanage is located).
We made our way back off the train (only have 2 minutes to exit the train before it leaves the station!) That was a blast with bags and kids in tow, and then more escalators and hallways. We left thinking that the van that was picking us up would be right outside the station, but of course not. We had to walk and walk and walk and then walk again. We arrived and there was only ONE van to pick all of us up with our luggage. They immediately knew that wouldn’t work, so they had to hire 2 extra cabs to take all of us. What we didn’t realize, was that Curt and Kyle left in a cab by themselves (with the luggage) but no passports on them. Uncle Curt said he was a bit unnerved thinking about the lovely things that could have happened, if they had gotten separated from the rest of our caravan!!
Anyway, after about 20-25 minutes, we arrived at the orphanage. We were greeted by the Director, who sat with us a bit, and told us the facility and about Zachary’s life at the SWI. She told us that 73 children are housed there now and that they range in age from 0-18 yrs old. They have had a “lucky” year in adopting out 8 of those children so far (that’s less than 10% of the children!). Most of the children have severe special needs and aren’t even having their paperwork processed for adoptions anymore. They are only preparing files on the “less minor” needs children.
After that depressing talk, the Director called in Zachary’s favorite nanny, Nanny Jo, and he was SO happy to see her! He ran right over to her. She sat with him a little bit as we took some family photos. After that, we were escorted to a smaller building, where they had a huge lunch table set for us with no less than 10 dishes of different kinds. The kids were so excited. The lunch was just for us and the food was delicious. It was nice to be celebrated, but I am sure that very few ate like we did that day. The cook even packed up all of the mini milks that Zachary and Tyler enjoyed (sort of like a yogurt milk) and a huge bunch of local grapefruit that Kyle loved.
The contrasts between our meal and the typical childrens’ day-to-day meals were staggering. One of our children asked if the orphanage children ate meals like this every day. We sadly had to inform them that this was a special meal, just for us, and that the orphanage meals were probably not as large or as varied.
After our lunch, we were taken inside to the actual orphanage housing, and first into the “baby room” where Zach spent most of his time. It was very difficult emotional to process, as the kids that are still left there are definitely more challenged in their needs. The steel cribs were outfitted with thick blankets and sheets, and lined up in side-by-side. Some children were bed-ridden and looked extremely pale and sickly, another was blind, another little one laid on the floor and barely moved. If we asked about the children, the nannies would tell us about each child’s needs.
We had brought some snacks, so Zachary was distributing those and it was almost survival of the fittest as they followed him around and waited for the snack food. Some would share, others would hoard. We were all touched in different ways by the sights, sounds, smells and feelings of that room. The Nannies have such a difficult job and yet provide all the care and love that they can.
Next, we were led into another room like Zachary’s, with a few of the more mobile children following us. The nannies probably try their best, but it is clearly evident that some children are probably not touched that much (they are just lying in their bed all day) and that there is probably very little stimulation or excitement of any sort.
After some time in Zachary’s room, we walked down the sparse hallway, past several other almost identical rooms, each also filled with cribs. These other rooms were a little darker, much quieter, and more subdued. We just passsed them by, only having a chance to glance in, knowing that each room was filled with little people living their lives as best they could, trying to cope with the significant challenges they faced, helped by whoever could help them. The thoughts of what their futures might hold was overwhelming…
We continued into the playroom and the Nannies brought a few children, some of Zachary’s cribmates from his room, into the playroom with us. We had one of Zachary’s good friends in with us (the last one left there), another little boy who could not walk (his legs are twisted) so he crawled along the floor, a few little girls and a 9 month old baby.
Kyle began to get extremely overwhelmed and upset about the children being “left behind” and what their futures may not be. It was tremendously heart-wrenching. He bonded with the little baby and told us that he wanted to adopt that baby when he was old enough as an adult. Ryan made fast friends with the little boy who could not walk, and he just laughed and smiled as Ryan played with a light up toy with him. Dylan kept busy with a few of the children, trying to put on a little girl’s shoes, which were way too small. The look on his face was so cute as he kept saying “Mom, these just do not fit!”
Tyler and Ashley also kept busy moving about all of the children. There was an adorable little girl there, probably about 2, who would just watch us and follow us around. She didn’t speak at all, but you could tell that she was soaking it all in. Her paperwork is being worked on now for her adoption. We spent a few hours with the kids and then left behind necessities and gifts for the children and nannies. As we went back outside again, another boy (Colin) approached us (probably an older teen who has lived there for years). He was very friendly and kept wanting to say “Ni Hao” and shake our hands. He also wanted his picture taken with UC and Charlie.
The SWI was a full-service facility, so the children are housed with some elderly too, so there were some older folks wandering around us and staring. One older man was dressed in old military fatigues. There is so much to say about adoption and why we do it (way beyond the few words here…) The emotions are overwhelming at times on how a child’s life can change just by being adopted vs. living out a life in an orphanage, and then later maybe being at the mercy of the SWI system. Like we tell our kids “Every child needs a family”; but unfortunately, sadly, not every child is able to find theirs.
*stepping away from the keyboard to get a drink of water and recompose…
Zachary seemed happy to say his last goodbyes and move on and out of there. We cannot imagine what daily life must be like there day in/day out with no stimulation, small stuffy rooms, lots of sickly children. It changes you… and we’ll never be the same again, after seeing some of what we’d seen.
As our visit wound up, we were all ready to continue on with our journey, since the day was growing long, with miles to go before we sleep. We headed back to the train station (again in 3 cabs, luggage, stroller and escalators!). Our province guide, Steve, parted with us at the train station and we hopped the next Maglev to Guangzhou.
Dad: “I think that’ll hold.”
Steve: “More Tape”
Dad: “We’re good”
Steve: “More Tape”
Dad, interjecting here… As we tried to get positioned on the platform so that we’d be in front of our correct cars, we had to maneuver somewhat close to the tracks. Near the edge of the platform, where the train would be, there was a Yellow Rumble strip, with a bright white painted stripe, indicating that one should stay clear – and stay back, away from the edge. The white safety stripe looked to be about 5 feet or so from the platform edge. That seemed to be a safe distance…
As we were still walking toward our boarding position, our train had not yet arrived. The next sound we heard was so loud and so forceful and so alarming that my first instinct (as it was Meg’s as we made eye contact from 12 feet away) was to grab every one of our kids by the arm to secure them. We learned a lesson at that moment that not every train coming through the Chenzhou station actually stops at the Chenzhou station. In fact, they don’t even slow down. The train we heard was two platforms away and even still, it scared the crap out of us. The thought of 6 kids being 5 feet away from a high-speed Maglev train barreling through the station at 190 + mph was like waking from a nightmare in a cold sweat. The potential of it may not have affected everyone like it did Meg and me, but it was enough to drive heartbeats into the orange. That was something we won’t soon forget! <Dad – tapping out again>
As we traveled toward Guangzhou, we made one stop in Shaogan. Meg and Curt said lots of people got on that stop with huge boxes of fruit. They were sitting in a different car from us due to their “assigned seats.” At the same time, the random man next to Tyler offered him an orange to eat. Tyler was befuddled, while Charlie and I were laughing. Charlie was a bit unsettled with the stranger’s fruit, so he threw it out, while Tyler kept wondering “where it went!”
After about 90 minutes, we finally arrived in Guangzhou. Again, a pain to lug everything back down escalators with tons of smokers (who light up exiting the train) and more escalators. Our next guide and driver met us at the exit area, and we hopped in a nice large van on the way to our next hotel stop, the Garden. We were beat by then, and hoped to check in and get an early dinner, but no of course not.
We spent an hour checking in and fighting with the front desk, over incorrect rooms, problems with bed etc. so we did what we could to get settled in and went to bed! We suffered through some quick pre-bed snacks,but would rely on the next day’s breakfast to re-energize us.
The hotel is a business hotel and a mandatory adoption hotel, but this is the third time that we have had massive issues with our check-in process. It seems to be a bait and switch game at all times, which reservations getting randomly changed or not found. When the steward came in to make the roll-away bed, I think that he was scared as he saw the steam rising from my anger. He might have hit a world record in making up a rollaway in 5 minutes or less!!
Sleep came easily to all that night.
Medical Exam Day
After a quick night’s sleep, we were up again early to hit the breakfast buffet and then go to Zachary’s medical exam. Before we headed upstairs to the clinic, we had to get a passport photo taken for his US Visa. The child in front of us at the photographer was not cooperating – at all! nothing was working. The photographer kept snapping hoping just ONE pose might be good enough. Exasperated, she wrapped up, quickly printed the boy’s photo, and called for Zachary. In 15 seconds, Zachary was was settled, steady, and finished after TWO snaps. We truly hope this is a sign of things to come, as we take LOTS of pictures our our kids – and he’s now one of US!
Next we headed upstairs to the clinic. He needs a cursory exam to enter the United States. As we were walking into one of the exam rooms (as our guide cut in front of others again and told us to just “go in!”), she says “it says he has hearing problems, you know that?” I said “no, he doesn’t have any hearing problems; his need is a wrist issue.” She looks at me perplexed and leaves the room. The doctor begins the exam and starts speaking in Chinese. Zach refuses to answer or acknowledge. The doctor speaks to Charlie in Chinese. Well “no sir, we don’t speak Chinese!” I had to race out and grab the guide and ask her to translate. He was basically just asking what words he knew and what he would respond to. Then he signed his paperwork and we were shuffled off for height and weight – a whopping 30 lbs. (maybe on a good day, as he feels MUCH lighter and is swimming in size 4 clothes) and a tall 36 inches.
Then he was taken into a room for the TB test and something else (that they didn’t tell us about) – he came out screaming bloody murder w/two bandaids and he was NOT happy. Then we pushed again ahead of two other families, until our guide was basically told by another Chinese local that “no, there are others in front of you!” So we sat another 10 minutes waiting to see the final doctor. He did a few head measurements, checked throat and ears, body and really felt his wrists all while pretty much saying NOTHING except “okay, you are done.” As the adoptive parent, you just keep writing down on the paperwork what you think (or were told) his needs are. Zachary has be to examined in the US, so we have to list about 3 possible needs for his wrist issues.
After that, we were definitely glad to be done with that piece. All of his medical exam info becomes paper of his visa paperwork for the US Consulate appt. on Tuesday. On the way home from the appointment, we hit the local Walmart to view some of the local delicacies and buy a few small supplies for the rooms. UC loves to buy the most exotic foods here to try like shrimp fries (yes, they smell disgusting and are definitely nothing like Chickie’s and Pete’s) and rib-eye flavored potato chips!! We stick to Dove chocolate, Peppa Pig cookies and Kinder eggs. These are the “real” Kinder eggs with little toys inside (they don’t allow those in the US). Ashley got a little garbage truck in the one that she opened so far. You know, hard plastic/candy inside an all in one treat – very healthy, ha.ha.
Some of the delicacies at Walmart…
Yres, Chicken Feet! 
Then as we arrived back at the hotel, the kids worked us hard to get in a swim. We sent Kyle down first to see if the pool was even warm enough, so he comes back up and says “yes, several people down there. It is fine for swimming.” Sounded okay, as it is in the mid-70s here. We go down to the pool and it is FREEZING, on top of an overcast day. Of course, all the kids want to go in, but Tyler and Zachary can’t swim without an adult, so I sent Charlie in as the brave soldier! He was in and out again in 5 minutes. Basically came out blue (they don’t believe in heated pools here!!) The life guard raced out and hit the chair, as soon as the kids went in, probably thinking “who in the world swims when it is this freezing cold in the water?” The kids swam for awhile though. They used to have a nice kiddie pool here, but it is now completely closed and under construction, and the big pool starts at 4 feet. After the icicles formed, we got them all out. Then we hit one of our favorite restaurants here, Oggi’s. It’s an Italian restaurant (perfect for China!). The food is delicious, though.
With tummies full, we all shuffled back to our rooms for a good night’s sleep.